Day 21: Self Tour of San Ignacio

This weekend I contemplated treating myself to a luxurious hotel with air-conditioning, a comfortable bed, fancy restaurant, and a pool--but my bank account reminded me that I'm living on student loans and need to save my $$! Thus, I decided to do a self-tour of San Ignacio and relax. The past few weeks I've just been going going going and I'm pretty exhausted!

This morning I roll-out of bed just in time to make a cup of instant coffee and grab some toast before the kitchen closes. Clive mentions how this weekend is the annual fiesta in Benque, which celebrates patron saint Our Lady of Mount Carmel--he says its one of the biggest events in Belize, and that people come from all over, including Guatemala and Mexico. He warns me not to stick around after dark, since there are usually local feuds that end up in a couple people being shot. Okay, I'll definitely not stick around for that!

I call a cab and head into San Ignacio to take a Benque cab....after 3 weeks, I've learned how to get around. A San Ignacio cab to Benque is $20 bze but a Benque cab to Benque is only $4 bze! I make the switch and I'm on my way...I have no idea what this festival is all about, but I heard street corn, tamales, crafts, live entertainment and I was sold!

We pull up to this big dirt area and the cab driver tells me this is it. THIS IS IT? I look around and see old, rickety carnival rides that are just baking in the hot sun....not a soul is in sight! Perhaps because its mid-day and it feels like 97 degrees? As I walk down the dirt pathway, I begin to hear whistling and "ay ay ay Señorita"; I look around and see the carnival operators huddled underneath umbrellas and trees for shade. They offer me a free ride on the ferris wheel that probably only goes up 100 feet...but I decline. These rides look like they're from the 1940's and I'm scared enough on rides at the San Diego County Fair!

I continue on, looking for the crowds, but hardly anyone is here. Most of the merchant booths are covered with tarps, the local food is just beginning to hit the grill; the only thing open for business is bar row which consists of several large tents next to each other, each boasting drink specials and their own loud speaker, blasting different music. It is like auditory overload..each sound guy is trying to play their music louder then the guy next door, it sounds awful!haha I consider sitting down and making friends, but I look around at my potential company and its just a couple locals slumped in their chairs, already wasted from the the rum. I'm beginning to draw attention to myself and the shy girl in me starts to feel really uncomfortable! I keep walking, looking for more people; maybe they are all  at the field watching a band competition or futbol tournament. But no, completely empty. Clive told me to come early, but I guess this is too early!!!

I catch a cab back to San Ignacio and decide to hit up the local market instead...its everyday but Saturdays are the biggest! The parking lot is lined with booths selling fresh produce, homemade bread, clothing, jewelry, hand-crafted wooden figurines, brightly colored purses and hammocks; this is way more my style! I purchase a pitaya (dragon fruit) because it is so pretty! I have no idea how to eat it, but I'll just Youtube it. I'm LOVING all of the delicious fruit that I rarely eat in the States...and the mangos are out of this world. Better than ice cream, and I'm pretty obsessed with ice cream!

Produce galore!

Pitaya.

So many vibrant colors!

The snow cone cart

After trying every sample in sight, I wander into Western Dairies for some coffee ice cream. This is a very popular spot in town, serving ice cream made that is made in Spanish Landing, one of the more modern Mennonite communities. Belize has a very prominent mennonite population, with over 12,000 mennonites residing in small, rather isolated communities. Most of their ancestors originated from Europe and the tradiontalist Mennonites speak a guttural form of German; approx 2,000 Belizians of Mestizo and Creole origins have also converted to the faith. However, the mennonite community is divided in two--you have the progressive mennonites of Blue Creek and Spanish Lookout and the conservative group of Shipyard and Upper Barton Creek. The more conservative groups are frequently mistaken for Amish, trekking down the country roads in horse in buggies. Despite their old-fashioned approach to farming, the mennonites produce over 85% of the poultry and dairy products in Belize...I've been told that if you want fresh milk or eggs, you just wave down a horse-drawn buggy as they make their morning deliveries.

$2.50 bze gets you all of this!!!

Okay, off of my little history tangent. After my appetizer of ice-cream, I stop by Martha's Guesthouse for lunch, hoping to try their famous tamales...but they only serve them at dinner time. Instead I order a glass of fresh watermelon juice and a plate of garnaches--fried corn tortillas topped with refried beans, a zesty cabbage/onion/cilantro blend, shredded cheese, and the infamous Marie Sharpe's hot sauce. My lips are on fire!!!

Garnaches

Fresh Watermelon Juice

I'm stuffed so I decide to walk it off! I ask my waitress for directions to the San Ignacio Hotel which  is known for its iguana conservation project--my sister told me I HAD to go! I make a few wrong turns but eventually find my way (note: don't listen to drunk man, you'll def got lost!haha) As I enter through the inviting doors of the hotel I am happily met by the cool A/C...ah, this is heavenly! I talk to the friendly concierge, Ruben, and he tells me I'm just in time for the next tour! The green iguanas have become a threatened species in Belize due to over-hunting and destruction of their natural habitats. Many cultures hunt the iguanas during the spring, especially the females caring for developing eggs. The eggs are considered a delicacy and often used in stews and the meat of the female reptile is more flavorful. The conservation project raises the iguanas from egg to juveniles and releases them into the wild after 4 years; the program allow guests to "adopt" an iguana and name it. I didn't pay to adopt one, but I decided to name my friend Mel...she is a gentle soul who enjoys a good back rub and cuddling.

Mel, such a gentle soul.

These guys will do anything for some fresh leaves!

Oscar, the bully.

I've been looking for a new accessory....

On my way out, I mention to Ruben how gorgeous the hotel is and how I would LOVE just to stay there for one night. He hands me his contact info and tells me to call him....he's got the hook-ups! Woohoo, perhaps my wish will come true and I'll be living like a queen for one night! :-D

I continue on my self tour of San Ignacio and walk the 15 minutes to the top of Cahal Pech, the local Maya ruins...its a gorgeous view, overlooking the town and surrounding jungle. Gosh, such a pretty country and its so peaceful up here....and eerie! I'm the only person in the park right now and I keep imagining finding a vagabond living in one of the empty caverns or stepping on a snake in the dark tunnels. Thanks to my super adventurous clothes of flip-flops and a sundress, I make it out unscathed!

Gorgeous view from the top...the photo doesn't do it justice!

I can't believe this is right outside of town!

I'm pretty obsessed with these doorways

At this point, I've gone 4 hours without ice cream so its definitely time for more! Cayo Twist is known for its non-dairy ice cream and homemade waffle cones...as well as really bizarre hours (Thurs through Sun, 6-9pm). But the coconut ice-cream is to die for and totally worth all of the walking! Now that I've ruined my appetite, I think I'll just head back to my house and eat my fresh fruit for dinner; besides, I don't need a repeat of last Satrurday night!haha I'm exhausted so I decide just to head back to my house and eat all of my fresh fruit dinner.

I'm not excessive at all ;-)

Street view from the ice cream shop